Beautiful Bay of Naples
In recent months there has been some discussion and visual material on
television concerning Vesuvius and Pompei, both on the Bay of Naples
(Golfo di Napoli).
The volcano and the ruined city are both
strongly in the spirit of the bay in the minds of the people of Naples
and the other settlements around the water. Vesuvius is, after all, an
active volcano and who knows when it will erupt again with terrible
effect? Also in the minds of locals, for the same reason, is the
ancient city of Herculaneum, also destroyed by the mountain's deadly
activity.
Yet the bay, despite the looming presence of the
volcano, is overwhelmingly beautiful. It's also fascinating. For
example, the privately-operated articulated electric railway, the
Circumvesuviana, which runs on 3feet 1 3/8 inch tracks from Naples to
Sorrento, is a unique experience. There are stops for Pompei,
Herculaneum and Torre del Greco. all places destroyed by the 79AD
eruption. And of course there is the intriguing island of Capri where
the emperor Tiberius was residing at the time of the crucifixion of
Jesus. Capri is a story in itself and for those who enjoy watercraft there are the hydrofoils which take you across the bay to the island. If you don't enjoy watercraft, too bad. You still have to take the hydrofoil to get to Capri from Naples. And of course there is the great metropolis of Naples itself, a city you can take many days to exp[lore.
The
bay? It is utterly beautiful. I wrote about it in my book, Unpacking
Italy: Passions of a Traveller. This is part of what I wrote, with the
island of Capri specially in mind:
"I first saw it as a seaman at
the age of seventeen, though from a distance. I stepped ashore from a
cargo ship in Naples and walked as far as I could along the northern arc
of the bay. Then I turned and looked back. Immediately I knew I had
never seen anything anything as beautiful anywhere. I have seen nothing
lovelier since,
The city seemed to have its feet in the water,
forming a curve of an extraordinary collection of buildings lining the
deep blue of the bay. Ferries were coming and going from Mergellina and
Beverello. The Angevin and Aragonese fortress of Castel Nuovo stood
menacingly over the waterfront, dominating Stazione Marittima. Vessels
were everywhere on the water. As my eye followed the line of the bay,
there in the distance twin-cratered Vesuvius, with just a trace of
scarcely visible smoke idly curling into an azure sky, stood as a
reminder to Neapolitans that beauty is not always without its darker
side. From Vesuvius the Sorrento peninsula stretched westwards, pointing
invitingly to Capri, with its two distinctive massifs joined by a
gently sloping saddle. So near and yet so far! Soon it was back to the
ship, but I had experienced some hours of excited imagination. My
determination to set foot upon the island was firmed.
Some day, some day!
Too soon, the hour came for casting off and it was back to work for the seventeen-year-old seaman.
The Bay of Naples receded into the distance and something of Tony Gates was left behind."
Should
you read the book, I hope it will bring you pleasure as, in your
favourite armchair you travel the length and breadth of Italy.
Sources for purchase are:
Austin Macauley Publishers
Abe Books
Amazon
and other sellers
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